Adventures in Helsinki's best connections suburb
exploring Kallio, Hakaniemi and Sörnäinen
My name’s Celina and from March to September 2024 I lived in a Comodo apartment in Ullanlinna. I didn’t realize it at the time but the unexpected move allowed me to experience life in Helsinki from a different perspective. After I moved back home I decided to continue the adventure by spending more time in the other districts of Helsinki. So join me, as I see what life would be like in Punavuori, Kallio/Hakaniemi, Jätkäsaari and Töölö.
Sörnäinen is located about a kilometer from the center of Helsinki, near the district of Hakaniemi. You can jump on any number of trams or buses or even a metro to get there but I took Tram number 3 since I wanted to get to the heart of Kallio (but we’ll get to that in a minute). It also boasts convenient connections to the office areas of Redi, Teurostamo, Kalasatama, Valilla & Pasila as well as easy access to both Töölö, Ruoholahti & the airport.
This neighborhood has the least amount of cars per resident due to excellent connections and all amenities being within walking distance. Sörnäinen has adapted to its residents, with a diverse offering in leisure activities, sports and restaurants. The area has also grown in popularity for business premises and offices. So, this could be the ideal location for you if you’re looking for a hole in one- excellent connections, short commutes and everything you need just steps away.
I, myself have never had the pleasure of living in the district of Kallio or Hakaniemi but I do have plenty of friends living there so I am somewhat familiar with the areas. Seeing as I was the one writing this district's story, it only made sense that I go and explore and spend time in this neighborhood myself.
So where did I start?
As I mentioned earlier, I started in the heart of Kallio, or actually maybe just off its center at Kallio Church. Kallio Church is a landmark in its own right with its tower rising 94 meters above sea level.
After walking around this beautiful church and admiring its tower, I then continued a short distance to the nearby Karhupuisto Park.
It was named after the statue in the park called “The Bear on the Anthill.” The statue was designed by Jussi Mänytnen, who worked as a taxidermist in the Department of Zoology at The University of Helsinki and just like people say, it is indeed incredibly detailed up close.
Across the street from Karhupuisto is the wonderfully delicious Way Bakery. There’s no way you could miss it, seeing as even I couldn't miss it and I wear glasses because I don’t see far. Thanks to its ample lighting it shines like a lighthouse in the corner. No wonder there’s many articles written about this bakery. Just from the outside it looked so warm and welcoming and then when you’re close enough, the scent of freshly baked goodies lures you in. That’s another thing Sörnäinen is known for- its food culture.
After admiring the windows of Way Bakery, I continued my adventure on Hämeentie. Here you’ll find restaurants, cafes, stores and bars but honestly, you’ll find them in all the nooks and crannies of this area. I rather enjoyed myself. I admired some of the architecture, visible in the building entrance ways, the diversity of this neighborhood's residents and saw the locals catching up over beers. I noticed the smaller cozier bars on the street that could only fit a few customers at a time and thought to myself, that should result in higher quality customer service and I would probably enjoy that..
But I had my sights set on a different destination, in the very heart of Hakaniemi– the Hakaniemi Market Hall. Referred to as Helsinki’s most authentic hall, it’s been serving clients since 1914. I couldn’t even remember the last time, if ever, I had visited this hall so it was about time and boy, can I tell you- I loved it!
The Market Hall is like a town of its own, with the two floors of business owners as its residents. There’s this communal feeling, of everyone knowing one another. The business owners are friendly and smile at you, yet give you the space to browse the produce and products without the pressure of purchasing. The vibrancy of colors and variety in products entices you to visit each and every stall.
I bought “lusikkaleivät” ,traditional Finnish cookies I love and then headed upstairs to see what treasures awaited me there. Upstairs was a shoppers paradise, where all sorts of goodies can be found; hand made gloves, socks, children’s toys, notebooks, candles, cards, soaps and so on. I bought led lights for home and the best smelling soap I had ever come across. After treating myself, I went to take photos of a relatively new restaurant named, “Kirsikka” (cherry in Finnish). The waitress said the name stemmed from the restaurant being “the cherry at the top of the Hakaniemi Market Hall.”
I didn’t just take photos though, I ended up eating there and I’m so glad I did. The food was delicious and the atmosphere so relaxing and you can’t help but just feel happy. I enjoyed the pike perch with vegetables and a glass of Prosecco. That’s when another thought came to my mind. If I was staying in this area, I could absolutely see myself becoming a regular here and that thought made me smile!
Other recommendations on what to visit from locals are the restaurants; Harju8, Tanner, and Onda, (which also has live music) as well as Kotiharjun Sauna, a throwback to the old traditional saunas where you’ll find a welcoming community.
Sörnäinen surprises with it's equally calm atmosphere
Although Sörnäinen and Hakaniemi are full of the hustle and bustle of life, I was equally surprised to learn there is an equal cozy and calm presence in this neighborhood which is created and catered to by the local businesses be they bars, restaurants or the Hakaniemi Market Hall and when the atmosphere is right– you can feel at home just about anywhere right?